Artificial grass works well for dogs because there's no mud and no brown patches. To stop it smelling you need a free-draining base, prompt pick-up and a regular rinse of the spots your dog uses. Kennels and runs on concrete also need a fall on the slab and, where needed, drainage holes.
What dogs do to a real lawn
Dogs and Irish lawns don’t get on well. Urine burns brown patches into the grass, and there’s a worn track along the fence where they run up and down. Diggers leave holes. Then from October on the garden turns to mud, and the mud ends up on the kitchen floor.
Artificial grass deals with most of that. Urine has nothing to burn, and there’s no soil to dig into or carry indoors. For a lot of dog owners that’s enough to make the back garden usable again.
You can’t lay it and forget about it, though. A dog area that’s badly laid will smell. One with a good base and a hose run over it now and then shouldn’t.
Will artificial grass smell of dog urine?
Urine goes through the perforated backing and down into the stone sub-base, the same way rain does. Smell builds up when:
- the base doesn’t drain freely, so urine sits underneath the grass
- the dog always uses the same spot and nobody ever rinses it
- there’s a long dry spell, with no rain to wash things through
- solids are left on the grass, or the residue isn’t washed off after pick-up
For most of the year the Irish weather does a lot of the rinsing for you. The places to watch are the ones the rain doesn’t reach: sheltered corners, the ground under an overhang, and covered kennel runs.
The base under a dog area
Drainage counts for even more where there’s a dog. A typical dog garden goes in like this:
- the old turf and soil are dug out, usually by roughly 75–100 mm, and taken away
- a crushed stone sub-base goes down and is compacted with a whacker plate, so liquid can move through it quickly
- a finer levelling layer goes on top, chosen with drainage and smell in mind
- then a weed membrane, and grass with a backing that drains well
- edges and joins are fixed down firmly so curious paws can’t lift them
In dog areas we’re careful about what goes into the levelling layer and whether to use any infill, because some materials hold on to smell more than others. There’s more on how we set up gardens and runs for dogs on our dogs and kennels page, and our guide to drainage in Irish rain explains why the base matters so much.
Day-to-day care
It doesn’t take much to keep a dog area fresh:
- Pick up solids straight away, then give the spot a rinse with the hose to wash off what’s left.
- Hose down the main toilet area regularly, and more often in warm or dry weather.
- Use an enzyme cleaner every so often. Pick one sold as pet-safe and suitable for artificial grass. The enzymes break down the urine residue that causes the smell instead of covering it up.
- Brush the grass every few weeks to lift the pile and get the hair and bits out.
- Keep bleach and strong disinfectants away from it. They can damage the grass, and they’re not good for your dog’s paws.
Our guide on how to clean artificial grass goes through general cleaning in more detail.
Kennels, dog runs and concrete
A lot of kennels and runs are on concrete, and the grass can go straight on top. There the slab does the draining instead of the ground. It needs a fall so liquid runs off, and if it’s flat or has low spots we can drill drainage holes so urine and washing water get away. A foam shock pad underneath gives the dogs something softer to lie on.
Kennels need the most hosing, because they’re usually covered and never see the rain. If you’re building a run from scratch, sort out the fall and the drainage before anything else.
| Setting | Main thing to get right | Cleaning |
|---|---|---|
| Back garden | A stone sub-base that drains freely | Rinse the toilet spot regularly, more in dry weather |
| Covered kennel or run | A fall on the slab, and drainage | Hose down often, enzyme cleaner every so often |
| Concrete yard | Fall, drainage holes where needed, shock pad | Rinse towards the drainage points |
Things to keep an eye on
- Heat. In strong direct sun, artificial grass gets noticeably warmer than real grass. Give your dog shade and fresh water on hot days.
- Chewing. Puppies, and some older dogs, will chew at an edge or a loose join. Check them now and then and fix anything that’s lifting.
- Digging. Most dogs lose interest once there’s no soil to get at, but a persistent digger may try the edges.
- Favourite spots. Where a dog lies or runs all the time, the pile can flatten. A stiff brush lifts it again.
Who it suits
Most dogs and most owners, as long as you’re willing to pick up straight away and run the hose over the grass now and then. If nobody in the house will do either, it’s not for you.
If you’re thinking about it for your dog, get in touch for a free quote and free samples for your garden, kennel or dog run.
Frequently asked questions
Will artificial grass smell of dog urine?
It shouldn't, as long as the base drains freely and you hose the main toilet spot regularly, more so in dry spells. When it does smell, it's nearly always poor drainage or a spot that never gets washed down.
Can dogs dig up artificial grass?
Most give up fast once they find there's no soil to get at. A determined digger will sometimes go at an edge or a join, so in dog areas we fix those down well.
What cleaner is safe to use on artificial grass with dogs?
Plain water from the hose does most of the work. Every so often, use an enzyme cleaner sold as pet-safe and suitable for artificial grass. Keep bleach and strong disinfectants off it.
Does artificial grass get too hot for dogs' paws?
It can get warm in strong direct sun, so give your dog shade and water on hot days. A quick spray with the hose cools the surface down.
Can artificial grass go in a kennel or dog run?
Yes, on soil or on concrete. On concrete the slab needs a fall, with drainage holes where needed, so urine and washing water can get away.